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Cotonou,

Place to Go Zou Savalou

Destination: SAVALOU

Abomey and Ouidah's claims aside, Savalou residents claim that this is the heart of Voodoo country. Savalou is nestled in the scenic hills of "Les Collines" and boasts some of the richest culture and most animated festivals in Benin. The Maxi people who live there are culturally very distinct, with their own royal lineage and set of traditions. Like Dassa-Zoumé, Savalou also abounds with possibilities for walking and exploring the surrounding hills. Because of its location, Savalou is a convenient detour for those traveling north, and this possibility will be made easier by the highway currently being constructed between Savalou and Djougou, soon to be the fastest route to northern Benin.

Attractions

- Climbing the Hills of "Les Collines"

Like Dassa, Savalou is an ideal town from which to hike and explore the beautiful surrounding hills. Although these areas are not yet developed for hiking, there are nonetheless trails around and over the mountains that are usable outside the rainy season (April-July) when they are overrun by vegetation. Throughout the region of "Les Collines," the kings used to live on the mountaintops and many areas are still considered powerful or sacred, so ask someone before climbing in order to respect local traditions.

- Voodoo Fetishes and Relics

There is a multitude of sites related to fetishism in Savalou and the surrounding villages. These may be of limited interest to the non-practitioner, but visitors with an interest in anthropology or non-western religion will undoubtedly find them fascinating. Click here for a list of some of these sites, with explanations and comments by a former American Peace Corps Volunteer.

Events/Activities:

- Ascension Celebrations

Because of Savalou's proximity to Dassa and La Grotte, the site of the Virgin Mary's apparition, large Ascension celebrations take place here as well. On August 15, Savalou's main Catholic church has its annual fundraiser and Savalou natives come home from throughout Benin to see their families.

- Festival of Yams

This festival, dedicated to Savalou's main crop, takes place in mid-August as well. In recent years, it has merged with the Ascension celebrations to produce one very large party that is more secular than religious. Here, visitors are sure to find a warm welcome, as well as traditional singing, dancing, and lots of food. Two of Savalou's specialties: pounded yams and ground manioc, are especially plentiful during this festival.

General Information

Cost of travel from Cotonou:

Single place in Auto-Taxi: 3.000 - 3.500 CFA

Seat on Bus: 3.800 CFA

Approximate Travel Time:

Auto-Taxi: 5 - 6 hours

Bus: 5 - 6 hours

Travel Notes

Unless you rent an entire Auto-Taxi, the bus is highly recommended for travel from Cotonou. It is air-conditioned and affords more comfort for a relatively long ride. Its schedule is sometimes sporadic but is expected to improve with the construction of the new road between Savalou and Djougou.

Best time to visit

Savalou is most interesting during its biggest festivals in mid-August, as well as December-January, when there are spectacular Voodoo ceremonies. Also, the mountains have less vegetation in January and are easier to hike. As this is also one of the best times to visit Pendjari National Park, tourists often choose to stop in Savalou on their way north.

Lodging

Auberge de Savalou - 15 rooms with ceiling fans and private showers

Motel Musso

L'Amitié

Les Trois Manguiers

Le Berceau des Amoureux

Restaurants

Auberge de Savalou

This hotel's restaurant serves African and some European dishes. Dishes include beef, goat, and chicken with rice, cous-cous, pâte, or pounded yam.

The Zenith

Just off the highway to Dassa on the road to the football stadium, this restaurant serves standard Savalou fare: pâte, akassa, or pounded yam with beef or goat in peanut or tomato sauce.

Street Vendors

At Savalou's main crossroads, where the road to the market meets the highway to Banté, there are two grocery stores and many street vendors, where you can find a variety of cheap local food. There are several bars in the same area which are the most lively in town.

Local Markets:

Savalou has a medium-sized market (slightly smaller than Dassa's) near the center of town. There is a wide variety of typical market items there, and prices are generally lower there than in nearby Dassa or Tchetti. There are no real options for European food or toiletry items, however, so tourists are advised to make these purchases before arriving in Savalou.


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